The Great Ocean Road

Michele kicks off her mammoth trip on 9th January 2012. Read her roving reports from the High Seas to her journey Down Under. Keeping you up-to-date with all the news as it happens.
Post Reply
User avatar
Michele Monro
Posts: 1097
Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2005 6:31 pm
Location: United Kingdom

The Great Ocean Road

Post by Michele Monro » Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:04 pm

The Great Ocean Road – Photographic Weekend
23-25 March 2012

Craig Newell
Deanne Hassett
Natalie Verheggen
Michele Monro

After Melbourne the Great Ocean Road is the most visited region of Victoria. Unsurprising when you consider the glorious coastline it fringes. It takes in some of the most stunning coastline and countryside in the country, featuring historic shipwrecks and excellent beaches. The Great Ocean Road, which continues to rank amongst Australia’s and the world’s most glorious coastal drives, is also the world’s biggest war memorial, dedicated to all Victorian soldiers who died fighting in the First World War. It took almost 3,000 returned soldiers 13 years to construct. The workers lived in camps set up in the nearby bush; their backbreaking labour can only be imagined when you consider the steep terrain.

The Great Ocean Road technically begins at Australia’s surfing capitol Torquay and follows the surf coast through the resort towns of Jan Juc, Anglesey, Aireys’s Inlet, Lorne and Apollo Bay – as well as the small hamlets of Wye, Kennett River and Mogg’s Creek. Well-known for its family friendly beaches and surfing spots, the Surf Coast is becoming increasingly renowned as an adventure playground for mountain biking, canoeing and bush walking.

Craig had arranged to pick me up outside MacDonald’s in Sanctuary Lakes. He’d also arranged the same for Deanne Hassett and at 8.00am we both met and got chatting. By the time the 12-seater luxury minibus arrived we’d broken the ice. The other girl, Natalie Vereggen was already in the bus and with introductions made, luggage loaded and seats taken, we were off on our adventure. The girls kindly gave me the front seat because of my carsickness and off we set on our 75km drive to Geelong for breakfast on the foreshore. Craig had already made a reservation at The Sailor’s Rest. Geelong is Victoria’s second largest city and delightful seaside town. As with other Australian places I have been to I was struck by the cleanliness of the town and the wonderful modern structures on the waterfront.

Back in our mini-bus we drove past Torquay, the start of the Great Ocean Road and Australia’s internationally recognized surfing capitol. It is also the birthplace of global surf brands like Rip Curl, Quicksilver, Globe and Billabong. Ten minutes later and we were waving goodbye to Anglesey. As well as the great beaches, shops and dining options, environmentally the area is significant – one quarter of Victoria’s plant species grow here, including more than a hundred varieties of orchids.

Our first photographic stop was at Airley’s Inlet, which the locals say is the Great Ocean Road’s best-kept secret. It was once a staging post for Cobb & Co Coaches. This small village has sheltered coves, cliff walks and more gorgeous beaches. The 34-metre tall Split Point Lighthouse is the most famous landmark and is a part of a network of navigational aids maintained around Australia’s 36,700 km coastline for the safety of shipping by the Australian Maritime Safety Authority. It was established in 1891 as a manned station but in 1919 it was taken over by the Commonwealth Government and converted to an automatic operation. Fondly known as The White Lady, the lighthouse is now open to the general public.
As well as enjoying the most wonderful views, it was the perfect first stop for all our cameras to have an airing. With appetites worked up we stopped at The Grand Pacific at Lorne for lunch. Lorne’s setting is perfect – a cosmopolitan coastal village with a magnificent beach against a backdrop of the majestic rainforest of the Great Otway National Park. The only slight disappointment was the weather as it had been raining on and off since we’d left Sanctuary Lakes. After a wholesome lunch and feeling warmer, we set out to Erskine Falls, about 10 km out of town, a sub-tropical oasis full of life and movement. Two viewing platforms allow vistas of the 30-metre single drop fall, as water cascades over the rock face 300 metres above sea level. The first platform was only 80 metres from the car park and that is where I positioned myself while the others walked a further 150 metres on what was at times, a slippery trek. I was very aware as I started the descent to the base of the falls that the trek back to the bus would be too challenging for me if I went all the way down. Over 100 steps can pack a punch to a normal fit person, on me it would probably be a knockout however many resting breaks I took. Regardless, the scenery from where I stood was wonderful and even the rain didn’t dampen my spirits. I wish I’d had longer to stay in the area, as there are another 10 waterfalls within 10 km as well as zip lining which I would have loved.

Sadly it would have to be another time as we had a date in Apollo Bay. Nearly 200 km from Melbourne this gem of a town is set against the Otway foothills, with a long beach and a shopping strip and a huge selection of cafes, restaurants and two bustling pubs. Craig drove us to our accommodation for the night, which describes itself as a contemporary B&B. Captain at the Bay is so unlike and B&B I’ve seen in England. Us girls were given the Bridge Rooms, some of the newest rooms, which were added in September 2008. These, in my opinion, are luxury digs, which feature a queen’s sized bed, a large luxurious bath in the room itself, double shower, 32’ LCD screen television built into the wall and a DVD player. Being elevated, the balcony offers privacy as well as stunning views over Apollo Bay. Most importantly the beds had electric blankets and we all put them on in readiness for or return later that night.

After checking in, we were given an hour to chill out and at 5.30pm we met in Craig’s room for a group technical session. We were all given Photography Guide Books and chatted about techniques for that night’s shoot. Because I only had a compact camera with me, Craig lent me one of his cameras, a Canon G12 to use otherwise I would not have been able to achieve anywhere near what my fellow students would. What I loved about it was that I could see on the screen how adjustments were affecting my shot and I think that is the secret to my success. Now it doesn’t matter if I don’t remember which button is the aperture or the ISO, what matters is whether I’m happy with what I can see – brilliant.

Our first stop though was dinner. Within walking distance of the hotel, Craig had booked us in to The Vista, which specialized in seafood. The setting was lovely but not knowing too much about Australian fish I played safe and had linguine in tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and herbs with a portion of garlic bread just to make sure I stunk everyone out. Should keep the snakes away!! With my belly full we climbed on board our magical mystery bus and headed for Skene’s Creek. Again the beach was beautiful but what was fascinating were the dozens of rock pools. It was the right time to have a camera at the ready.

Back at the hotel w all compared notes and chilled out with a bottle of wine or in my case a coca cola. I left the room at 9.00pm and went to my own room so I could ready myself for my radio interview at 9.30pm. I was appearing on 3AW Nightline with Philip Brady who was a good friend of dads and a massive fan. He told me he’d bought a copy of my book a year ago and he also had the new release of the CD The Singer’s Singer. Simon Owens, the show’s producer rang me at 9.15pm to check the line and at exactly 9.30pm on the dot the phone went. I picked up my mobile and thinking I hadn’t pushed the ‘answer call’ button, I clicked it again which then hang up on the station. I did panic for several minutes until they rang back. I had prepared for a 15 mine chat so was delighted to have had 30 minutes of air time and Philip was kind enough to plug the book several times over. Off air he invited me up to Melbourne for lunch next week so I’m going to try and work that into my schedule.

Crag and the girls said they enjoyed the interview and after a 15-minute conflab about what time to meet in the morning I fell into bed, very grateful that the electric blanket had been put on hours before. I would have loved to have got in the bath but I was worried that once in, I wouldn’t have been able to get out again.

Day Two

Everyone up and in Craig’s room for 6.30am and with all the cameras loaded we got in the van and drove to Jack’s View. This is not on the tourist maps but is a place that Craig searched out some months ago. It’s on the peak of a hill overlooking Apollo Bay and there we set up all the equipment waiting for the dawn to break. These are the sorts of views that you normally see in magazines and I felt very privileged to be there. Although not raining it was cold and after hot showers at the hotel we packed up and headed out to a full English breakfast at Chris’s. Craig had made a deal at the hotel that instead of having breakfast there, which was included, they would prepare a picnic lunch instead for later in the day. After all the driving we’d done it was nice that breakfast was only ten minutes away and I have to say the views were amazing. Another short drive and Craig pulled up in Apollo Bay Marina. It had started raining but we braved the weather to get that all-important shot. I’d actually come up with a brainwave of taking all the shower caps from the hotel so we could use them to cover our cameras – genius.

The marina pier was covered with birds and colourful boats littered the water so we had good material to work with. I couldn’t believe that people were in the sea surfing because the air was bitingly cold and even with wetsuits it can’t have been warm. The main beach was opposite the marina so we were spoilt for choice.

One of the most spectacular forest drives you’ll see in this part of the country starts at Skene’s Creek, where you leave the Great Ocean Road and wind your way north through the hills until you reach Turton’s Track. Turn left and continue to wind your way through the majestic Great Otway National Park. A left turn down Binns Road takes you to Hopetown and Beauchamp Falls, and the majestic Sequoia Forest, which was planted in the 1930s.

The walk to the waterfalls was a hefty 2.5km and I did attempt it, in fact the walk down didn’t seem too bad until I realized it was all downhill. I made about 800 metres and told the gang to go ahead without me. I was frustrated by my inability to see the Falls but was worried I wouldn’t get back up. Instead I turned back and looked for interesting shots to take. Here’s the thing, the others walked the remaining 1.7km, spent 30 minutes at the Falls taking pictures and made it back THREE minutes after me! I couldn’t believe it had taken me so long but the whole trek was uphill.

Just by the opening of the trail was a wonderful picnic area and bless Craig if he didn’t make up the table with a white linen tablecloth and a full set of cutlery. Our lunch was great and the hotel had made up fresh poppy-seed chicken salad rolls, pizza breads, fruit and the best of all … a Mars bar. Because of the late lunch we all voted to forego the restaurant dinner later and grab pizzas on the way back to our hotel tonight – unanimous. We drove to our accommodation for the night, this time we had a villa between two of us. Quite honestly one villa would have been ample for all of us. Deanne and I shared and we each had a double bedroom but we also had another double room and three single beds upstairs, two bathrooms and a utility room, lounge, dining room and kitchen. Craig and Natalie had an identical villa next door.

We were given an hour to ourselves and Deanne, Natalie and I opted to go into Port Campbell and have a mooch. We did the shops, all four of them and then visited the museum but it had shut at 4.00pm. It didn’t matter as they had several old artifacts outside and it didn’t take us long to grab our cameras and take a few more shots. The stretch of beach there was really rough but it just enticed the surfers to grab their boards and venture out.
Craig picked us up at 5.30pm and we went back to our villa for our technical session. Because we’d been shooting in RAW format, over Jpeg files, Craig showed us the benefits and how to manipulate your images into stunning works of art.

The coastal strip between Princetown and Peterborough was declared a national park in 1964. This stretch of coast is one on Australia’s most famous. Over millions of years, the limestone cliffs have been eroded by the ocean and wind and this has produced some of nature’s most spectacular sights such as Island Arch and the Razorback near Loch Ard Gorge, but the most famous site is the Twelve Apostles. These amazing rock formations are set against 70 metre cliffs. From sunrise to dusk the changing light enhances the beauty of this awe-inspiring vista.

Our sunset outing to catch our first sight of these amazing structure was to Gibson’s beach. We were now 264km away from Melbourne, a five-hour journey, and one very much worth making. Sadly I had to take my shots from the top of the cliff, as there were more than 50 steps to reach the beach. Not only were these steep but the rain had made them very slipper. I still had a wonderful view. The girls very generously told Craig to send me a selection of their photos from the things I had missed so all is good. Amazingly from our vantage point there were very few people but Craig explained all the tourist buses were in the spot where we were going in the morning. Driving back towards our villa he pointed out the area and true to his word there were about 20 tour buses parked on top of each other (lol).

We stopped at Nico’s Pizza place on our way back and Craig ordered enough to feed the 5000. We had a Margarita, an herb and garlic and an antipasto pizza, which had mozzarella cheese, spinach, olives, marinated eggplant, mushrooms, roasted capsicum, sun-dried tomatoes and feta cheese. Not only that but it was followed by their specialty, a Nicochoc Pizza Dessert. This being hazelnut chocolate pizza with ice cream and strawberries. I also indulged in a small glass of wine, the excuse being that unlike Captain at the Sea, Ocean Villas did not have electric blankets, so the wine was to warm me up. It was a wonderful day and the dinner tasted so good. We all agreed that this was much better than being in a restaurant. We were all tired and by 11.00pm I was in my bed. I didn’t even make one page of my book. I have to say I am so lucky to be on this trip because not only are the girls a laugh but Craig has relaxed somewhat and seems to be enjoying himself as much as we are.

Day Three

Another 6.00am start and with all the equipment ready to go we were off to the Apostles to watch the sunrise. It is interesting that last century the formations were called the ‘Sow and Piglets’. Muttonbird Island near Loch Ard Gorge was the ‘Sow’ and the smaller rock stacks the ‘Piglets. Perhaps 12 Apostles was thought to be a more distinguished name. The rock stacks are the temporary remnants of a retreating limestone coastline, under constant attack by the sea. Cliff faces are being eroded at the rate of 2 cm each year and sadly because of this, two have collapsed already and there are only ten visible. They also have another rock formation in the sea called London Bridge… and that has fallen down!

En-route to the Apostles Observation Centre the van hit and killed a kangaroo. I was so upset but there was nothing we could have done to avoid it. The animal had jumped straight out at us and it was only because Craig didn’t panic that we were allright. I would have probably tried to swerve and taken us off the road. This is a hazardous highway for these sorts of accidents and there are sign posts warning drivers but it is impossible to avoid them. Craig said this is the most dangerous time, just before sun up. In view of the thousands of miles he has travelled through his job, he was surprised that it hadn’t happened to him before.

True to his word of last night, we arrived to find we were the first there and we picked out prime spots for our shoot. Unfortunately the battery had died on the camera I was using and selflessly Craig gave me his expensive one to use. He did me a favour in so far as I hated it. I didn’t have as easy a control as with the G12 and could only judge my settings after I had taken the picture. Not only that but it is really heavy as is each of the girls. It has definitely made up my mind about my next camera purchase.

The rain came again so the shower caps came out again and the only niggle over the weekend was that we had neither a sunrise or a sunset, just overcast skies although the cloud formations were interesting. Even when we left the area at 8.30am there were only about six people there, not a coach tour in sight. Our booking for breakfast was at Waves in town. I have to say all the portions we’ve had could have fed two people. The restaurant is actually situated on the Great Ocean Road so it has a perfect setting especially as it offers travelers an intimate boutique style accommodation as well. It seems that all the hotels and B&Bs have opted for contemporary and architecturally designed suites with the facilities you’d expect in a luxury hotel. Mind you the business is seasonal and a lot of the properties including the shops and bars are up for sale.

We headed back to Ocean Villas for a much needed warm shower although unbelievably the sun had raised its hat. We had our last conflab with Craig and packed up all our stuff ready to transfer out. We had a long journey back so didn’t stop for a couple of hours but when we did it really felt like we were in the middle of nowhere. Red Rock is a dramatically different landscape and forms part of the lakes and craters precinct of the Kanowinka Global Geopark. The 360 degree views from the dormant volcano were amazing. From here we headed to Colac, a gateway to the Great Otway National Park. The town is reminiscent of having been left behind by modern society and although it is supposed to be a busy regional town, I didn’t see any evidence of that fact, maybe because it was Sunday or that the shops were shut but everything looked deserted. Craig gave us each an assignment in that we had to walk the area and find a photo story. We couldn’t discuss it amongst ourselves and while Deanne and Natalie set off in different directions, Craig dropped me off at Colac Station as he knew I couldn’t get physically very far on foot. If I thought the town was deserted, then the train station looked unused and you got the feeling that the next train was due in, in eight days rather than six hours. There was absolutely no one around so it wasn’t hard to reflect a neglected station stuck in the past.

Craig picked me up thirty minutes later and we drove to the park to meet up with the girls. By the time they arrived the tablecloth was on the table and fish and chips and salads were waiting. Although not overly hot it was nice to be ran-free. Everyone showed off their photos and we all got top marks.

Our last stop was truly spectacular. Beeac is only 19km northeast of Colac and is a township of 204 people. It was named after a tribal chief whose headquarters were in the nearby Warrion Hills. It was also the aboriginal name for salt water or salt lake referring to the high salt levels in nearby Lake Beeac, which is where we parked. The lake covers an area of about 560 hectares (1400 acres). An important wetland water bird habitat, Lake Beeac is a state wildlife reserve. Despite the lake being hypersaline, which can give it a ghostly milky whitish hue, the brine shrimps that thrive in its waters provide a food source for the banded stilt and red-necked avocet.

Although I’d used my gumboots (wellingtons) over the weekend, here it was really necessary to be able to plod through what felt like a heavy clay deposit. I nearly lost them a few times but after walking a certain distance I nearly fell in so we all kept fairly near to the shore. Four or five years back, because of a long drought, the area was just dry, cracked land and its only in the last couple of years that its levels have begun to go back after some much needed rain. The photos I took don’t really do justice to thr mazing vistas that spread out in all directions. With the sun out you could see the distant shore tree reflected in the water and the whole area was different shades of white, gray and blues, almost like looking at an over-exposed picture. Our next task was getting our boots off with minimum damage to anything else they touched and having used the one foot to lever the other off, Natalie forgot herself and used her shoeless foot to get the clay-baked other boot off. Boy did we all laugh when we saw the state of her socks.

Sadly the adventure was over and we headed back to the van for one last time and made our weary way back to Melbourne. We dropped Deanne off at Point Cook, a mere five minutes away from Sanctuary Lakes and with lots of hugs all round and business cards exchanged we waved her goodbye. Next it was my turn and bless Graham’s heart if he wasn’t waiting by the door ready to help me with my luggage. I really did look like the bag lady. The first words out of his mouth were ‘welcome home’ and I thought that was so lovely. More hugs all round and then they were gone, like a mirage in the desert.

A fabulous trip and one to be remembered for a long time.

Catch you soon, stay well
Michele

User avatar
Lena & Harry Smith
Posts: 21514
Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 10:05 am
Location: London UK

Re: The Great Ocean Road

Post by Lena & Harry Smith » Tue Apr 03, 2012 4:18 pm

What a fantastic story Michele and what an adventure. One that you will never forget. Really enjoyed reading it.
Welcome Home, magical words from Graham :) :!:

User avatar
Marian
Posts: 20956
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 3:02 pm
Location: Reading. Berkshire.

Re: The Great Ocean Road

Post by Marian » Tue Apr 03, 2012 4:36 pm

Very memorable weekend for you Michele, apart from the accident with the kangaroo of course. The same thing happened to a friend of ours in Australia.
Hope we are going to be treated to seeing your photos too.
It must be sad making many friends who become an important in your life for a while, to say goodbye when that part of your trip is over, but you know more are awaiting up ahead. :D

User avatar
mariana44
Posts: 16367
Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 9:26 pm
Location: Kent

Re: The Great Ocean Road

Post by mariana44 » Tue Apr 03, 2012 4:57 pm

That was so wonderfully descriptive--I felt as though i was there with you---your trip gets more and more amazing by the day.
Mariana

User avatar
Michele Monro
Posts: 1097
Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2005 6:31 pm
Location: United Kingdom

Re: The Great Ocean Road

Post by Michele Monro » Wed Apr 04, 2012 3:31 am

Some pictures have been loaded at www.facebook.com/michelemonro

Well I hope they are there. Every time I go to log in at Facebook they have changed the look of it and I am totally lost. The trouble is when you re on someone else's internet you haven't got the time to sit and explore all the options. Fingers crossed that they are there. Let me know
x

User avatar
Lena & Harry Smith
Posts: 21514
Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 10:05 am
Location: London UK

Re: The Great Ocean Road

Post by Lena & Harry Smith » Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:50 am

Yes, they are there Michele, and they say it's always good to have another string to your bow. Well done. Thanks for sharing these great pictures. :)

User avatar
Marian
Posts: 20956
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 3:02 pm
Location: Reading. Berkshire.

Re: The Great Ocean Road

Post by Marian » Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:56 am

Yes, I realised they were there when I looked on facebook, and enjoyed looking at them Michele. :D

User avatar
maureen & harry
Posts: 1068
Joined: Wed May 28, 2008 11:27 am

Re: The Great Ocean Road

Post by maureen & harry » Wed Apr 04, 2012 5:49 pm

What a great report. Your adventures seem to get better and better Michele. Some of the places you have visited and described are just fantastic.

Looking forward to the next one :D :D

Thanks to your reports Michele - we were watching Eggheads last night and one of the questions was "In which continent would you expect to see the Great Ocean Road and the Twelve Apostles" Of course we knew from your report that it was Australia but the contestant chose New Zealand as we shouted at the screen!
:)

User avatar
Marian
Posts: 20956
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 3:02 pm
Location: Reading. Berkshire.

Re: The Great Ocean Road

Post by Marian » Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:31 am

Just taking time to look at Michele's itinery and see by now she will have be leaving New Zealand behind her, and has a few days at sea before Fijii ahead. Hope she will able to catch us up with her travels, but realise communications are difficult. We miss your updates Michele.

Post Reply

Return to “The Long & Winding Road”