Halong Bay - 14 February

[Michele Monro]

Often referred to as the ‘Bay of the Descending Dragons’, Halong Bay is the gateway to Hanoi. Local legend has it that the gods sent down a family of dragons to protect Hai Phong from invaders, especially the Chinese and defend their land. While the dragons’ watched over the land, their mighty tails carved the rock seabed and Halong Bay was created. The magnificent bay is undoubtedly the natural wonder of Vietnam, with 3000 or more incredible islands rising from the emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin. These tiny islands are dotted with beautiful beaches and dramatic grottos, created by the natural forces of wind and waves.

Halong Bay was deservedly created a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. The bay includes spectacular, steeply rising and often forest covered islands composed of limestone, innumerable caves with wonderful stalactites and stalagmites, and fascinating flora and fauna. Coming into the bay was heart-pounding stuff and because there was a thick mist lying over the area it gave it all a spooky quality. It reminded me of Stonehenge on water. I know the ship has sophisticated radar and we had a local pilot but it was eerie weaving in and out of the towering rocks. Everyone went camera crazy, clicking non-stop in the hope of capturing the perfect picture, me included.

I’d opted for the Junk Cruise to explore the mystical islands and World Heritage Site of Halong Bay. This port was by tender but in fact our junk boat had come alongside us so we were able to jump straight on. I can tell you one thing, Health and Safety would not have approved the trip; in some places the junk was just that! We were told that passengers were not permitted to sit on the top deck but those warnings fell on deaf ears and as soon as we had left the sight of Arcadia we all made a beeline for upstairs. It was really wonderful, not just in seeing these strange rock formations but all the boats that passed were equally entertaining. We made our way over to Thien Bung Cave and Dou Go Cave but with more than 100 steps to negotiate both upward and on the downward journey, all the gangly cripples stayed on board.

We sailed to the exit point to pick up those brave few who had decided to make the climb and on our way back to the ship we came back a different route, which was truly breathtaking. We passed a floating fishing village secreted within the rocks and I would have loved to spend a couple of days weaving in and out of the lagoon.

On arrival back at the ship we didn’t dally and within the hour we were ready to take the tender across to Ha Long City and its famous market. There were stalls of every size selling just about everything you could think of. Poor Lucia, she was talked into giving up her shoes for what she thought was a polish but before we could blink the guy had stuck on a nee black heel. The reason she’d bought the cream shoes in the first place was because they didn’t have black heels and leave skid marks on her floors in Cyprus. The local lad spoke no English at all but kept indicating that the shoes needed fixing while we frantically gestured for him to take it off. He’d used super glue and the heel was fixed fast but he did finally manage to pry it off. Thank goodness he’d only messed with one shoe. Lucia grabbed her shoes and was totally unperturbed that one was now a different colour from the other. She told us she would willingly clean the other herself. God we all laughed.

There were numerous things going on aboard the hip but because of it being Valentine’s Day, Anita, Bill, Tess and I opted to join in the quiz at the Aquarius Pool at ‘Love Under the Stars’. There were very few people there mainly because a huge pea-souper had surrounded the ship. God knows how we sailed out because you couldn’t even see the tender bats coming in. With over 3000 rocks littered across the bay I certainly wouldn’t have wanted to job of chief driver for that night. We all ended up at the Folk Night with Spinners guitarist and singer Mick Groves. Who was actually on holiday on Arcadia together with Maurice Grumbleweed. He told us he’d worked with dad at the old Lakeside Club. I also met up with Ellie and Ed Stewart and Kate Adie and her friend Ariel. However good the evenings are, I get tired, so I sloped off at 10.30pm.

The clocks went forward again and I welcome another sea day before all the excitement of Hong Kong tomorrow. The fog seems to have followed us and the temperature has dropped to a chilly 23 degrees. I am just praying that it doesn’t rain in the morning. Nearly 800 people are disembarking including all the entertainers so it will be interesting to see who is coming on next. I didn’t actually see Ian and Beth’s friend Mark Shortland so it would appear he didn’t get the letter they had left for him. I don’t know the full story but Ian and Beth have had all their credit cards stolen in Australia. Thankfully they were able to borrow some money, which will at least see them through to Oriana but I know Ian is worried about how to access further funds. When he rang his credit cad company they merely old him they would cancel the cards and send new ones to his home within 10 working days!!!! Really helpful. I can’t think of anything more stressful than being stranded miles from home without any money. Hopefully he’ll be able to sort something out.

Throughout the night we sailed across the Gulf of Tonkin on south- easterly courses, rounding the western coast of the island of Hainan Dao. We then followed easterly courses to parallel the southern coast, before settling a northeasterly course towards Hong Kong.

Cruise J201 Grand Odyssey Leg 2

Dubai to Mumbai 1146km
Mumbai to Cochin 590 km
Cochin to Colombo 311km
Colombo to Phuket 1164km
Phuket to Singapore 538km
Singapore to Sihanoukville 605km
Sihanoukville to Laem Chabang 238km
Laem Chabang to Phu My 647km
Phu My to Halong Bay 732km
Halong Bay to Hong Kong 611km

Total = 6032km

I nautical mile = 1.5 statute miles = 1.85 kilometers.

[Lena & Harry Smith]

We have enjoyed your up-date Michele, like reading a story and the experiences and sights sound wonderful, apart from the pea souper, and of course poor Ian and Beth having their credit cards stolen.
As you say who would want to be stranded miles from home without money.
Hope it all turns out ok for them.
Here's to the next time Michele. Thanks. !!!

[mariana44]

Another great update--sounds just brilliant---apart from Ian and Beth and their credit cards--bad enough when it happens when you are at home !!