Hong Kong - 16 February

[Michele Monro]

Shortly after passing Waglan Island, Arcadia embarked the local pilot and commenced making her way through the Tathong Channel, following the Traffic Separation Scheme. I will point out that this was at 5.30am and we were berthed at the ne Ocean Terminal in Kowloon a short while later. Honkers is undoubtedly one of the most exciting destinations in the world. A truly impressive skyline of modern skyscrapers outlines the busy harbour, which is full of sampans, junks, ferries and foreign cargo ships. The streets are crowded and full of colour but you just want to dive in.

Hong Kong is a Special Region of the People’s Republic of China, lying on the southeast coast of China. The total land area is 424 square miles, comprising Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and the New Territories, plus 260 outlying islands.

I came here with mum and dad in the 80s but 1st July 1997 marked the historic date of Hong Kong’s reversion to Chinese sovereignty. Under a unique arrangement referred to as ‘One Country, Two Systems’, the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region of China enjoys a degree of autonomy.

First things first, Lucia, Anita and I jumped off at 8.30am and headed straight for Nathan Road. The weather was at least dry but we were surrounded by a pea-souper, it was so foggy that you couldn’t see anything much a few roads up but we all managed to shop well buying up kimonos and wind lanterns, chomsams, key rings, pens and anything that was a tourist trap and laden with bags as well as extra suitcases we plodded back to the ship to drop off our wares.

We’d all booked ‘Hong Kong by Night’ and at 5,00pm we set off for our first stop. Few cityscapes are as spellbinding as the view of Honkers from the Peak; the green-swathed mountain that looms above Central’s tightly packed ranks of skyscrapers. Cool, and usually clear, it is removed from the city’ bustle, the area has long been one of the cities most exclusive retreats. Standing at 552 metres above sea level, Victoria Peak is the highest mountain on Hong Kong Island. It has been universally called ‘The Peak’ ever since Hong Kong’s early days when it was used as a signaling post. As each incoming cargo ship came into sight, flags of the vessels owners were hoisted. A gun boomed out to herald the arrival of mail boats from all over the world. The Peak Tram is arguably the most enduring emblem of Hong Kong’s unique past. It has seen war, been featured on films and television shows and played host to numerous dignitaries. In the early days, circa 1880, most people were carried to and from The Peak by sedan chair – a frail bamboo seat supported by two strong coolies. It was the most popular, if not the most comfortable mode of transport. In may 1881, Alexander Findlay Smith devised a plan to speed up the development of new residences in the Peak districts with the introduction of a funicular railway that would connect Murray Barracks in Central to Victoria Gap. Ever since the Peak Tram has helped to shape the face of Hong Kong’s development

I went up the Peak with mum and dad but back then the trams were green and carried 72 people whereas now the trams are red and have expanded to hold 120 passengers. Whatever mode of transport that takes you to the top, the view is terrific. It was a great shame that it was so foggy and unfortunately when we got to the top the lights of the city hadn’t yet come on so although you could see the mighty expanse, the overall majesty of the scene was hampered somewhat. I am lucky in that I have done the trip before so those images are firmly embedded in my head.

After returning to ground level, we went to the Peking Garden Restaurant where we were served a traditional 8-course Beijing duck dinner, where the highlight of the meal was watching one of the chefs make noodles. It is amazing that the restaurant’s every nook and cranny was packed to the rafters, as is every eatery in the city, as it is said that it is far cheaper to eat out than to cook at home. Dinner is not so much a peaceful dining experience as much as a stampede to eat quickly.

Having been up since 5.00am to watch the sail in I left the others on the tour to go on to Temple Street Night Market. I know this is a first but apart from being tired I was shopped out!!!. I made it back to the ship in time to see the multimedia spectacle symphony of lights show which employs coloured lights, lasers, holograms and search lights to music to transform 35 buildings along Victoria Harbour. Hailed as the world’s largest permanent light and sound show by Guinness World Records, the show commemorates the energy, spirituality and diversity that is Hong Kong. I actually think that those of us watching the show from the ship had by far the best view. I would have liked to have visited the new Disney Park but it was across the bay on Lantau Island and there just wasn’t the time. I think you need five days to take in all the notable sights of this wonderful city.

This is now the start of the third sector of Arcadia’s 2012 Grand Odyssey and today saw us gain a new captain. We are now under the command of Ian Walters who comes from Glamorgan. I’m sure he was on Oriana when I was on some years ago, as he definitely looks familiar. The Captains tend to do two months on and two off and it will be interesting if anyone actually sees this one as I certainly never saw the first. I remember not so long ago that the master of the ship always walked round the decks each morning to say hello to all the passengers. The trip that I did on Regent Voyager in November had that same routine but not on Arcadia. In fact there was a Q&A session a few days ago but all the questions had to be submitted in writing two days in advance. To me that is definitely the coward’s way and there is certainly no spontaneity during the session.

I found out tonight that I’m talking tomorrow which I’m pretty miffed about as no one has even asked me. I’m sure it’s not a great spot to have as most of the passengers only got on today, after very log journeys but we’ll have to see. I don’t even know if they are combining it with a book signing. All I know is I hope the hairdresser has room to put me in, especially as it is a black tie night tomorrow.



Thank God I managed to get a spot in the hairdresser at 12.00pm. I went to the office at 9.15am to be told they were all in a meeting. No one has contacted me and I feel a bit like a spare part. The Horizon doesn’t have me listed on the front page, only the back and inside next to the 2.00pm slot it simply says ‘Singer’s Singer’, as one passenger said, is it a talk on sewing machines! So it didn’t surprise me the theatre wasn’t full. I asked if they could do a tannoy announcement but was told they were not allowed. At six minutes o two I was told they couldn’t find the librarian so that meant they couldn’t access the books – result – no book signing. The talk went well enough and the audience I did have were very enthusiastic and warm but no one took me off the stage so I just stood there wondering what to do with the microphone set that was entwined around my body. I suddenly saw Matthew and asked him to help me remove it and then went into the office again to ask when I am talking next but guess what, they were in a meeting. All I could do was leave a message that someone contact me by phone to let me know if I am talking again. I was so upset that I went to my cabin for the rest of the night. I didn’t think I’d be showered with perks but I did expect a thank you. This is definitely a different show business world to the one I’ve grown up in.


Another day at sea and the climate has dropped dramatically as well as th sea conditions being rough. I braved it up to the deck dressed for winter but I was still freezing. It’s about 6 degrees and dropping and I don’t think we will see warmer climates until we leave Japan.

I went to the library to find the book missing again from the racks. It is so frustrating. 800 new passengers and the first thing they do is head to the library and either borrow a book or buy one and mine wasn’t to be seen. The same thing happened in Dubai as well so I’ll be surprised if I sell more than 20 books on the whole cruise. I’m trying not to let things get me down but I’m finding it hard and the cold weather isn’t helping as I can feel my joints starting to seize up again.

All the gang met back on deck later in the day and we’ve all arranged to have a party night in the Ocean Grill on the 6th March. Tess went off to make the booking to be old they can’t cater for more than eight at any one time there are twelve of us – so we are waiting to see what the manager has to say, we’ve offered to submit our menu the night before so fingers crossed.

We’ve received another round of paperwork regarding Japan, which s a doddle compared to us getting off at China in the morning. I think it will be safer to leave my medication on the ship as any narcotics are taboo under Chinese law and I don’t relish the thought of a Shanghai prison. I spent the evening catching up on emails and the blog, it actually takes a couple of hours each day so when the internet connection doesn’t work it is very frustrating and it puts everything behind so apologies for some of the delays.

p.s – I’ve had a letter delivered to the cabin tonight saying I am talking on the 20th and 22nd. I’ll let you know how it goes. I also bumped into Andre tonight, who is a comedic magician and a friend of Mark Porter. He’d travelled from Tahiti, to Los Angeles to London to Hong Kong, something like 50 hours of travelling and he hadn’t packed a coat. He’s on for a couple of weeks and his first show is on the 21st February so we’ll have to go and support him although I’m sure he doesn’t need it. He told me that he spends eleven months doing the ships so he’s definitely a seasoned pro.

[Lena & Harry Smith]

Another great update Michele but in spite of poor viewing of the magical scenery which was a little disappointing due to the pea souper, at least you've got your girlie priorities right with your shopping .
For your Q & A.session, hope the quizmaster had aquired enough time to answer the questions
Sorry your book signing didn't take off, but hope your Two talk sessiona go well.
Keep well wrapped up and warm after having that cough and chest infection, and enjoy your party.
I expect Mark will be pleased to know that you have met his friend Andre.
Take care till next time !!!

[mariana44]

Wonderful description again as always Michele---try not to be too despondent about the book signing etc---you still have a long time to go, and i am sure it will pick up.

Take care of yourself-this trip sounds exhausting, just reading about it !!

[karl]

Michele it's too bad you don't have an agent or somebody with you to iron out the problems - don't let them get the better of you, stand up for your rights girl!

Also it may be advisable to add to The SIngers SInger that it is about the legenday Matt Monro - by the way do you play any of Matt's records before or aftert your talk?

When do you reach Australia? Have you emailed Douggie yet?

[Marian]

Another superb write-up Michele, I know how you much you were looking to visiting Hong Kong again. I was wondering how much it changed since it was handed to the Chinese.
Shame about your talk, but hoping things will pick up for the next two, and the weather warms up too.
It's good to hear you managed to meet up with Mark's friend.

[maureen & harry]

More great and interesting reports Michele which leaves us breathless at your itinerary.

Sorry, however, to read that you weren't able to have a book signing. Let's hope they get their act together soon and that your next two presentations go well for you.